Balmain Suburb Review

Historic, pretty, full of character - Balmain is unique amongst Sydney suburbs.

Summary: An historic and undeniably charming suburb that exudes affluence, Balmain is a lovely slice of land dotted with sandstone-brick buildings dating back to the origins of Sydney. It’s got a lot of character, pockets of greenery, is packed with quality places to eat and drink, and its waterfront views are stunning. A prohibitive pricetag for buyers and terrible commute traffic – plus a disconnect from the heavy rail system – hold it back from being ideal, however.

Key stats

Balmain is frustrating in that it’s simultaneously one of the most gorgeous and one of the most limited suburbs in Sydney – on the one hand, it’s a place every visitor to or resident of Sydney should visit at least once, while on the other its high barrier to entry for those who would like to call it home means only a select few (or those willing to live in an older shoebox) will get to experience it at its best.

The suburb is hilly and bordered by water, with some truly great views on offer from multiple vantage points, and its terrace-lined streets are a pleasure to walk down.

This is some of “old Sydney” at its best, with the designs of many of these buildings still holding up well today and each different facade giving you something interesting to look at – whether it be bright wall-climbing vines draped in colourful flowers or imaginative little front gardens that do a lot with relatively little space.

Its first highlight for most visitors will be its main thoroughfare of Darling Street, which is packed with all manner of boutique stories and eateries that are almost universally charming; if you’re the type that likes to sample a new cafe each week, or make friends with your local baker or butcher like the days of old, then this street delivers and then some.

It also boasts one of the highest quantities of pubs of any suburb in the country, with several of them – highlighted by the Balmain Hotel and East Village Hotel – contained within older colonial-style buildings which give off a great atmosphere.

Appealing architecture is a standout throughout the suburb, as many old governmental and penal buildings constructed in that old sandstone-and-column style are lovely to look at and are a testament to just how solid their construction still remains with relatively little maintenance.

Those with pets will find a lot to like about Balmain. There are several dog-friendly parks (having a picnic with the pup down at Thornton Park next to the East Balmain Wharf ferry terminal and taking in some epic water views is a must), and many of its cafes and even pubs are pet-friendly as well. The main streets do somewhat lack grassed areas for your doggo to do their business, however.

Barriers to entry

As with a number of the other appealing and affluent water-adjacent suburbs in Sydney, it’s going to be the combination of price and a lack of living space that will keep many away.

There are very few standalone houses in Balmain, due to its fairly steep roads and a lack of overall surface area for construction. As a result, terrace living is the default here, and the desirability of the area means these properties fetch a pretty penny on the market in the rare occasions they become available.

Prices for a house here hover around the $1.6 to $1.8 million mark for those on the smaller end, and it’s not uncommon for smaller apartments to go for $1 million as well. Renters willing to sacrifice living space for the atmosphere may find an apartment for anywhere between $550 to around $700 while keeping things relatively modest, with newer-renovated options jumping up quickly in price accordingly.

Traffic & transport troubles

Families are serviced well for most needs, with a couple of public schools in both Balmain proper and nearby Rozelle on offer, while the suburb is largely self-contained and has most things one could need within its borders (including a Woolworths housed in a historic building that is unusually eye-catching).

Balmain boasts a high quantity of charming terraces

Balmain does feel like something of a “gated community” though; not only due to its pricetag but for the slightly odd position in which the suburb is based.

There’s only really one way in, there’s no heavy rail station, and its “nearest” light rail stop of Rozelle Bay isn’t located anywhere near enough to be of much use. The ferry is a good option for CBD access, however while Balmain is well-serviced by buses they are prone to a clog at another one of Sydney’s worst roads in terms of congestion.

“Dotted with palm trees and featuring a pleasant and upbeat main thoroughfare, there’s plenty here to draw in visitors for a day trip.”

Victoria Road has long been one of Sydney’s chokepoints for morning and afternoon traffic, and those poor souls who must grapple with the commute over the Anzac Bridge deserve a medal for perseverance on a daily basis. As a result, unless you happen to be working right nearby or are happy to sit in traffic for a couple of hours a day, the suburb will likely instantly lose a little of its shine.

Demographic-wise it’s largely dominated by well-heeled older couples who have been in the area a long time, with a slight air of snobbery about, and as a result Balmain isn’t exactly what anyone would call “cool” or “hip”; but its bar/pub scene is still lively enough to offer younger revellers some quality spots for spending an evening.

The Verdict

In many ways, Balmain is a slice of what “Sydney life” probably originally aspired to be; it’s got plenty going for it and is an excellent spot for a day trip on the weekends with its mix of views, nature, stores and dining.

But the modern inconveniences of central Sydney life layered over the top of this perfect picture – cost, time, congestion – make it something like an expensive classical painting that is frayed at the edges slightly.

It’s a bit of a shame, as otherwise this is probably the best overall suburb in inner Sydney. Unlike many other high-end Sydney suburbs, Balmain simply has a wonderful character that the rest lack.